Formulating with Hydrolysed Jojoba Esters

Jojoba oil is a popular ingredient in the cosmetic and personal care industry due to its numerous benefits for the skin, hair, and nails.

However, recently, hydrolysed jojoba esters have been gaining popularity as an alternative to traditional jojoba oil due to their unique properties and benefits.

What are Hydrolysed Jojoba Esters?

Hydrolysed jojoba esters are derived from jojoba oil, a liquid wax extracted from the seeds of the jojoba plant. Jojoba oil has been used for centuries in traditional medicine for its moisturizing and healing properties. It is rich in fatty acids, antioxidants, and vitamins, making it an excellent ingredient for the skin, hair, and nails.

The esters, on the other hand, are created by hydrolysing jojoba oil with water and an enzyme. This process breaks down the fatty acids in jojoba oil into smaller molecules, creating an ester that is more easily absorbed by the skin. The resulting esters have a light, silky texture that feels smooth and luxurious on the skin.

Benefits of Hydrolysed Jojoba Esters

Moisturising: Hydrolised jojoba esters esters are excellent moisturizers for the skin. They form a protective barrier on the skin’s surface that helps to lock in moisture and prevent dehydration. This makes them an ideal ingredient for dry and sensitive skin.

Nourishing: They are rich in fatty acids, which are essential for maintaining healthy skin. These fatty acids help to nourish and protect the skin, leaving it feeling soft, smooth, and supple.

Non-Comedogenic: Hydrolysed jojoba esters are non-comedogenic, which means that they do not clog pores. This makes them an ideal ingredient for acne-prone and sensitive skin.

Antioxidant: They contain antioxidants, which help to protect the skin from environmental stressors such as pollution, UV rays, and free radicals. This can help to prevent premature aging and improve the overall health of the skin.

Anti-Inflammatory: Hydrolysed jojoba esters have anti-inflammatory properties, which can help to reduce redness, irritation, and inflammation in the skin. This makes them an ideal ingredient for sensitive and reactive skin.

Uses of Hydrolysed Jojoba Esters in Cosmetics and Personal Care

Hydrolysed jojoba esters are versatile ingredients that can be used in a wide range of cosmetic and personal care products. Some of their common uses include:

Moisturisers: They are commonly used in moisturizers and lotions due to their excellent moisturizing properties. They help to hydrate the skin and lock in moisture, leaving the skin feeling soft and supple.

Serums: They can be used in serums to deliver active ingredients deep into the skin. Their lightweight texture allows them to be easily absorbed by the skin, making them an ideal ingredient for serums.

Haircare: Hydrolysed jojoba esters can be used in haircare products such as shampoos, conditioners, and hair masks. They help to nourish and protect the hair, leaving it looking shiny and healthy.

Lip Balms: They can be used in lip balms to hydrate and nourish the lips. Their lightweight texture allows them to be easily absorbed by the lips, leaving them feeling soft and smooth.

Sunscreens: They can be used in sunscreens to provide a natural SPF. They help to protect the skin from UV damage and prevent premature aging.

Makeup: Hydrolysed jojoba esters can be used in makeup products such as foundations, concealers, and lipsticks. They help to create a smooth, silky texture that feels luxurious on the skin.

Massage Oils: They can be used in massage oils due to their excellent glide and absorbency. They help to moisturize the skin and provide a relaxing, soothing massage experience.

Hydrolysed jojoba esters are a versatile ingredient that can be used in a variety of personal care formulations. Here are some tips on how to formulate with them:

Determine the ideal concentration: The optimal concentration of hydrolysed jojoba esters in a formulation depends on the specific application. For example, in a moisturiser, it may be used at a concentration of 1-5%, while in a lip balm, they may be used at a higher concentration of 10-20%.

Select a suitable emulsifier: Hydrolysed jojoba esters can be incorporated into emulsion-based formulations such as lotions and creams. Ideally, use a lamellar emulsion such as Olivem 1000, or Montanov 68 as these modern emulsifiers create creams that offer significant moisturising benefits over the more traditional emulsifiers

Consider the pH of the formulation: The esters are stable over a wide pH range, but for optimal performance, it is recommended to formulate at a pH between 4.0 and 8.0. Typically formulators create creams and lotions with a pH of roughly 6 so there should never be any issues. If formulating a cream that incorporates an AHA such as Glycolic Acid then make sure you adjust the pH up to at least 4 bearing in mind that will reduce the performance of the glycolic acid somewhat.

Incorporation: They can be added to formulations during the oil phase or the final stage of the formulation process. It is important to ensure that they are thoroughly mixed into the formulation to ensure even distribution. We tend to add jojoba esters to the formulation shortly after creating the emulsion.

Combinations with other ingredients: Hydrolysed jojoba esters can be combined with other ingredients such as emollients, humectants, and active ingredients to create customized formulations that meet specific needs.

Stability: Hydrolysed jojoba esters are stable and do not require any special storage conditions. However, it is important to ensure that the formulation is properly preserved to prevent microbial growth.

Compatibility: Hydrolysed jojoba esters are compatible with a wide range of other ingredients commonly used in personal care formulations, including oils, butters, waxes, and emulsifiers.

Examples of Formulations with Hydrolysed Jojoba Esters:

Moisturiser: Hydrolysed jojoba esters can be incorporated into a moisturizer formulation to provide hydrating and nourishing properties. A typical formula might include 5% hydrolized jojoba esters, 2% emulsifying wax, 2% glycerin, 2% shea butter, 1% stearic acid, and 0.5% preservative.

Lip Balm: They can be used in a lip balm formulation to provide moisturizing and protective properties. A typical formula might include 10% hydrolysed jojoba esters, 20% beeswax, 20% shea butter, 10% cocoa butter, and 1% vitamin E oil.

Hair Conditioner: They can be used in a hair conditioner formulation to provide moisturizing and nourishing properties. A typical formula might include 3% hydrolysed jojoba esters, 2% cetrimonium chloride, 1% glycerin, 2% panthenol, and 0.5% preservative.

Synergy of glycerine and jojoba esters

The combination of glycerin and hydrolysed jojoba esters creates a synergistic effect on the skin, providing multiple benefits such as hydration, nourishment, and protection.

Glycerine is a humectant that attracts water from the environment and helps to keep the skin hydrated. When combined with hydrolized jojoba esters, which are known for their excellent moisturizing properties, the resulting formulation helps to lock in moisture and prevent dehydration. Studies indicate that the combination of glycerine and jojoba esters in a 3 to 1 ratio creates a 24 hour moisturising effect

The combination of glycerin and hydrolized jojoba esters also helps to improve the texture and appearance of the skin. Glycerin helps to smooth and soften the skin, while hydrolized jojoba esters provide a silky, non-greasy feel to the formulation.

Overall, hydrolysed jojoba esters are a valuable ingredient in the cosmetic and personal care industry due to their moisturizing, nourishing, and protective properties. Their lightweight texture, non-comedogenic nature, and versatility make them an ideal ingredient for a wide range of products. Whether you have dry, sensitive, or acne-prone skin, hydrolized jojoba esters can help to improve the texture and appearance of your skin, leaving it feeling soft, smooth, and healthy.

Bakuchiol oil

is an increasingly popular skincare ingredient that has been gaining attention for its potential to deliver a range of skin benefits. It is a plant-derived oil that is extracted from the seeds of the babchi plant, which is native to India. While it has been used in traditional Ayurvedic medicine for centuries, it is only in recent years that its skincare benefits have been explored.

It is often referred to as a natural alternative to retinol, a synthetic form of vitamin A that is commonly used in skincare products to address a range of skin concerns. However, bakuchiol oil is gentler and less irritating to the skin than retinol, making it a suitable option for those with sensitive skin.

1. Anti-aging:

Bakuchiol oil works by stimulating collagen production in a few different ways. Firstly, it has been shown to increase the expression of genes that are involved in collagen synthesis. This means that it helps to activate the cells in the skin that produce collagen, encouraging them to make more of this important protein.
Secondly, bakuchiol oil has been found to increase the activity of an enzyme called matrix metalloproteinase (MMP). MMP is involved in breaking down old and damaged collagen fibres, which allows new collagen to be formed. By increasing the activity of MMP, bakuchiol oil helps to promote the turnover of collagen in the skin, leading to a fresher, more youthful appearance.
Finally, bakuchiol oil has been shown to have antioxidant properties that can help to protect collagen from damage. Oxidative stress, which is caused by environmental factors such as pollution and UV radiation, can damage collagen and lead to premature aging. By neutralizing free radicals and reducing oxidative stress, the oil helps to preserve the integrity of collagen in the skin.

2. Brightening:

Bakuchiol oil can help to brighten the skin by reducing the appearance of dark spots and hyperpigmentation. It works by inhibiting the production of melanin, which is the pigment responsible for skin color. Hyperpigmentation is a common skin concern that can be caused by a variety of factors, including sun damage, hormonal changes, and inflammation. It is characterized by the appearance of dark patches or spots on the skin, and it can be difficult to treat. However, bakuchiol oil has been found to be an effective ingredient for reducing hyperpigmentation and brightening the skin.
Bakuchiol oil works by inhibiting the production of melanin, which is the pigment responsible for skin colour. Melanin is produced by specialized skin cells called melanocytes, and its production can be stimulated by a variety of factors, including UV radiation, inflammation, and hormonal changes.
Bakuchiol oil has been found to inhibit the activity of tyrosinase, which is an enzyme that plays a key role in melanin production. By reducing the activity of tyrosinase, thel oil helps to slow down the production of melanin, which can help to reduce hyperpigmentation.

In addition to its tyrosinase-inhibiting properties, bakuchiol oil also has antioxidant properties that can help to protect the skin from oxidative stress. Oxidative stress can damage melanocytes and lead to hyperpigmentation, so by reducing oxidative stress, bakuchiol oil can help to prevent the formation of dark spots and patches on the skin.

Furthermore, bakuchiol oil has been shown to have anti-inflammatory properties that can help to reduce inflammation in the skin. Inflammation is another factor that can contribute to hyperpigmentation, so by reducing inflammation, bakuchiol oil can help to prevent the formation of dark spots and patches.

3. Anti-inflammatory:

Bakuchiol oil has anti-inflammatory properties that can help to calm and soothe the skin. This makes it a suitable option for those with sensitive or irritated skin.

4. Moisturizing:

Bakuchiol oil is rich in fatty acids, which can help to moisturize and hydrate the skin. It can also help to strengthen the skin barrier, which can help to prevent moisture loss.

5. Acne-fighting:

Bakuchiol oil has been shown to have antibacterial properties that can help to fight acne-causing bacteria. It can also help to regulate sebum production, which can help to prevent breakouts.

When it comes to incorporating bakuchiol oil into your skincare routine, there are a few things to keep in mind. It is best to start with a low concentration and gradually increase the strength as your skin becomes accustomed to it. It is also important to use sunscreen when using bakuchiol oil, as it can increase the skin’s sensitivity to the sun.

In conclusion, bakuchiol oil is a versatile and effective skincare ingredient that can deliver a range of skin benefits. It is a gentle and natural alternative to retinol, making it a suitable option for those with sensitive skin. With regular use, bakuchiol oil can help to improve the appearance and health of your skin, leaving you with a brighter, smoother, and more youthful complexion.

More

Introduction to Olivem 1000

 

I’m not a technical writer and so this article will not pass muster in any kind of technical or scientific publications: rather, this article is simply an explanation of how, after several years’ experience of working with Olivem 1000, and countless batches of creams made, I’ve come to understand how to formulate with this emulsifier for best results.
Bear in mind that along the way I’ve had many failed batches: but I’ve probably learned more about working with Olivem – which ingredients to avoid for instance – from the mistakes than the successes.
I thought about including lots of technical information in this piece but then realised that you don’t really need to know about all that – it’s not going to make the creams you make any better – instead I decided to dive in and explain just how to work with it.

 

But I will mention that Olivem 1000 is different to basic emulsifiers such as the old stalwart – Emulsifying Wax (Cetearyl Alcohol and Polysorbate 60 – though there are variants of Emulsifying Wax). The tried and tested Emulsifying Wax is robust and reliable enough that it is almost fool proof and you could incorporate pretty much any ingredient into an Emulsifying Wax based cream. And the process was simple – blend the heated water phase with the heated oil phase – whizz for a minute with a stick blender and then leave to cool.

Olivem 1000 is a little trickier – but not difficult – to work with. You just need to pay a little more attention to it. And the extra effort is worth it because Olivem 1000 is a superior emulsifier to Emulsifying Wax – not only does it have a better skin feel, it imparts much improved skin moisturisation – an essential quality for any moisturising cream!
So, let’s start off with the basics

How emulsions work

An emulsion (the basis of your cream) is a blend of oil and water with an agent (the emulsifier) which allows oil and water, which normally repel each other, to blend. As a very general rule of thumb, bearing in mind you are allowed a fair amount of deviation from this rule, the ratio of water, oil, and emulsifier, is generally in the ratio of 80:15:5. We call the first part the water phase and the second part the oil phase. The water phase includes the actual water and any water-soluble ingredients (or those ingredients that typically are added to the water phase even if not strictly water based). You can for example add humectants – posh word for ingredients that attract water – such as glycerine, propanediol, etc floral waters and plant extracts. The oil phase comprises oils, the emulsifier, and wax based thickening agents. 

An absurdly simple recipe therefore would be

80% Water
15% Oils
5% Olivem 1000

And that would work perfectly well. But it’s missing a few components not least of which is a preservative and without which the cream would be good for just 3 or 4 days even if refrigerated. There really ought to be a humectant (glycerine, propanediol etc) – you rarely see a cream without one, so let’s amend the recipe. I’m going to add ingredients that we stock (because I’m shamelessly trying to sell more), but really because I know them and can attest to them.

The heated water phase

Water 75%g
Glycerine or Propanediol 3%
Preservative (Spectrastat OEL) 2%
All of which add to 80%.
Heat the water phase to about 80C – 90C.

At this point we add the water thickener. All emulsions benefit from the inclusion of a water thickener but their inclusion is even more important when working with emulsifiers such as Olivem 1000. A water thickener adds body to a cream but more importantly helps stabilise the emulsion especially at the beginning when we combine the heated water and oil phases. 

There are many water thickeners available – xanthan, cellulose, siligel, sepimax zen, carbomers etc.
We like to use either siligel or sepimax zen in our creams but any will suffice. Many formulators don’t recommend xanthan gum in Olivem based emulsions as the final product can be a bit stringy but it is cheap and reliable and using xanthan at lower levels – say 0.2% should offset any tacky or stringy feel. No such issues with siligel (even though it does have xanthan in it) or sepimax zen both of which add glide to a cream. 

Use siligel at 0.5% to 0.8%, sepimax zen at 0.3%, or cellulose (we stock hydroxyethyl cellulose) at 0.4%
Lots is written about incorporating thickeners into the water phase and to be honest most of the recommended procedures are unnecessarily complicated – combining the thickener with glycerine to form a paste before adding to the water phase, or sprinkling the thickener onto the water and leaving for hours to swell up. Life’s too short for such nonsense. Simply sprinkle the thickener onto the heated water and whizz with a stick blender for a minute or so. Always works for us and we never get lumps!

The heated oil phase

Stand the water phase to one side while you weigh out the oil phase. By time you have heated the oil phase the thickener will have done it’s job and the water phase will be ready to accept the oil phase. 

According to the 80:15:5 rule we ought to have 15% of oils with 5% emulsifier but 15% of plant oils (unless you want a particularly rich cream) is a little high so I’m going to deviate a little from the rule of thumb and reduce the oils down to 12%. But feel free to stick with 15% especially if you are designing a night cream when the richness will be more appropriate

So the oil phase might consist of
12% plant oils *
5% Emulsifier
*(any you like though there are specific properties to each plant oil which ought to be a factor in the choice. Plenty of information about the individual properties of plant oils on the Google machine)

Tweaking the oil phase

At this point I want to highlight a fairly common trend amongst newer formulators. From dozens of e-mails received I’ve come to understand that many formulators believe that to increase the body or thickness of a cream they ought to keep adding more of the emulsifier. This isn’t the right approach: only use as much emulsifier as you need and then use wax thickeners (fatty acids and fatty alcohols) such as cetyl alcohol or stearic acid to increase the thickness of the cream.

A common problem with creams, especially those using plant oils and creams that do not use silicones is micro-foaming commonly known as soaping. Micro-foaming is the tendency of a cream to seemingly absorb quickly into the skin but to then turn white when you continue to rub the cream into the skin and prove a little difficult to actually absorb.

What happens is that the water content in the cream is mostly absorbed quickly, leaving the oils and emulsifier behind – essentially the emulsion splits on the skin. The emulsifier attempts to re-emulsify the oils and emulsifier with whatever water is available. Having more emulsifier in the emulsion than you actually need exacerbates the problem. Unless using silicones such as dimethicone (and silicones are a no-no for natural skincare products) in the cream it is difficult to eliminate micro-foaming altogether, but one can certainly mitigate against it. Using just as much emulsifier as you actually need will help and so in our recipe I’m going to use 3% Olivem 1000 (you can use 3.5% just to be on the safe side but 3% always works for me with 12% oils). The more astute amongst you will have noticed that the ratio of emulsifier to oils is 1:4 – i.e the amount of emulsifier is ¼ the amount of oils. So if you did want to increase the oil content to 15% for a richer cream you would use 4% emulsifier (close enough).

I would then add 1.5 % to 2% cetyl alcohol to the oil phase to create the thickness of the cream. Cetyl alcohol is very useful addition to an emulsion as it not only provides the body but it actually helps mitigate against micro-foaming – don’t ask me why – that kind of in depth chemistry know-how is above my pay grade – I just know that it helps!

Our oil phase looks like this
Plant oils 12%
Olivem 1000 – 3% (or 3.5% for safety)
Cetyl Alcohol – 1.5% – 2%

Combining the water phase and the oil phase

Heat the oil phase to 80C and then pour into the heated water phase while whizzing with your stick blender. A lot is written about pouring the oil phase ever so slowly into the heated water phase as though one was making mayonnaise (an emulsion using vinegar and oil with egg yolk as the emulsifier) so the emulsion doesn’t split – nonsense; I just pour the oil phase in one go and never had an emulsion split because I poured the oil in too quickly. I have had lots of emulsions split but pretty much always because one or more of the supplementary ingredients created an instability. (sidebar – aloe vera powder seems to be one of the most irksome ingredients for causing emulsion instability – Olivem 1000 and Natragem EW really don’t like aloe vera at all!)
Our (almost) complete recipe is now

Water Phase
Water 75%
Glycerine or Propanediol 3%
Preservative (Spectrastat OEL) 2%
Sepimax Zen 0.3%

Oil Phase
Oils 12%
Olivem 1000 – 3%
Cetyl Alcohol 1.5%

If you are happy to leave things there and don’t want to add anything else then we’ll need to adjust the water phase because the total of the above is only 96.5%. if we adjust water to 78.5% then the recipe is complete.

Water Phase
Water 78.5 %
Glycerine or Propanediol 3%
Preservative (Spectrastat OEL) 2%
Sepimax Zen 0.3%

Oil Phase
Oils 9%
Olivem 1000 – 3%
Cetyl Alcohol 1.5%

 

Incorporating esters

I wouldn’t leave the recipe there though. A couple more amendments and then we’ll be done. One of the drawbacks to relying exclusively on plant oils as the base of your oil phase is that the resulting cream can drag on the skin (a good cream ought to glide) and perhaps feel a little heavy and greasy.
To offset this I would strongly recommend incorporating esters into your cream as a simple substitute for some of the plant oils in your oil phase.
I won’t get you bogged down with a chemistry lesson that explains what esters are. All you really need to know is that they are a common group of chemicals that are used in a wide range of applications not least of which is their use in skincare products. Apart from the truly purist products most moisturising creams will contain esters.

Moisturising creams and lotions which rely exclusively on plant oils for the oil phase can tend to feel heavy or greasy, and can drag when applying the cream. Esters counteract any heavy or greasy feeling and improve the slip of the cream. Esters certainly improve the skin feel of a moisturising cream and their use is highly recommended.

There’s an awful lot more to the employment of esters in skincare products and a skilled formulator can incorporate 2, 3, or more esters to achieve a very particular skin feel given that there are so many esters with specific properties that can for example, determine the absorption rate of a cream, the play time of the cream, the ‘slippiness’ of the cream, the skin feel after application and more. But for the formulator who is new to esters let’s keep it simple.

The three most commonly used esters are

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Coco-caprylate Caprate

Capriylic Capric Triglycerides

There isn’t much difference between the three esters as theyare all light to medium weight esters which will reduce greasiness of your plant oils, improve the slip of the cream, and leave a soft, moisturised after feel. subsitute 1/3 of your oil phase with any of the three esters mentioned. For example for a 12% plant oil content, try 8% plant oils with 4% of your preferred ester. You can if you wish substitute half the oil content with esters.

Our recipe has progressed thus

Water Phase
Water 78.5 %
Glycerine or Propanediol 3%
Preservative (Spectrastat OEL) 2%
Sepimax Zen 0.3%

Oil Phase
Oils 9%
Ester (e.g Coco-caprylate caprate) 3%
Olivem 1000 – 3%
Cetyl Alcohol 1.5%