How Esters Differ from Oils in Skincare

Esters and oils often appear side by side on ingredient lists, yet they behave very differently in a formula. Both are emollients, but esters are engineered molecules, while oils are natural mixtures — and that difference changes everything from texture to stability.

1. The Chemistry Behind the Difference

Oils

Natural oils are complex blends of triglycerides (fatty acids), waxes, sterols, and unsaponifiables. They vary by crop, season, and refinement, which means their composition and performance fluctuate.

Saturated Fatty Acids

• Palmitic acid: Found abundantly in palm oil, cottonseed oil, and cocoa butter.
• Stearic acid: Present in soy oil and sunflower oil, and highly concentrated in shea butter.
• Lauric acid: Dominates tropical oils, making up nearly 50% of coconut oil.

Unsaturated Fatty Acids

• Oleic acid: The primary omega-9 monounsaturated fat, heavily concentrated in sweet almond, olive, and avocado oils.
• Linoleic acid: A crucial omega-6 polyunsaturated essential fat, dominant in sunflower, corn, and soybean oils.
• Alpha-linolenic acid (ALA): A vital omega-3 polyunsaturated essential fat, highly concentrated in flaxseed and hemp oils.

Esters

Esters are single, defined molecules created by reacting a fatty acid with a fatty alcohol. They have predictable polarity, viscosity, and oxidative stability, giving formulators precise control over texture and absorption.

2. Sensory and Texture Differences

Property	Oils	Esters
Skin Feel	Rich, sometimes greasy	Silky, dry, or cushiony depending on type
Spreadability	Moderate	Excellent — smooth glide and fast absorption
After‑feel	Can leave residue	Clean, non‑tacky finish
Consistency	Variable	Consistent batch‑to‑batch
Customization	Limited	Highly tunable through chain length and branching

Esters allow formulators to design sensory experiences — from feather‑light serums to rich balms — with precision that oils can’t match.

3. Stability and Shelf Life

Oils

• prone to oxidation and rancidity
• may darken or develop odour over time
• require antioxidants for stability

Esters

• highly stable and non‑oxidising
• maintain clarity and colour
• extend shelf life of emulsions

This is why esters are often used to replace part of the oil phase in modern formulations — they keep products fresh longer.

4. Compatibility in Formulation

Oils

• blend well with other natural lipids
• can destabilise emulsions if used in high concentration
• may cause “soaping” in lamellar systems

Esters

• compatible with most emulsifiers (Montanov, Olivem, etc.)
• improve droplet formation and emulsion stability
• reduce soaping and enhance glide

Esters act as structural lubricants inside emulsions, helping the lamellar network move smoothly during application.

5. Functional Roles

Function	Oils	Esters
Emollient	Yes	Yes
Solvent for actives	Limited	Excellent
Film formation	Moderate	Controlled and flexible
Pigment wetting	Poor	Excellent
Preservative boosting	None	Some (e.g., Glyceryl Caprylate)

Esters expand what formulators can achieve — they’re not just replacements for oils, but performance enhancers.

6. When to Use Oils vs Esters

Use oils when:

• you want natural origin and marketing appeal
• the product benefits from richness or occlusion
• you’re formulating for dry or mature skin

Use esters when:

• you need fast absorption and elegant slip
• you want stability and reproducibility
• you’re formulating sunscreens, primers, or lightweight emulsions
• you need to reduce greasiness or soaping

7. The Modern Approach — Blending Both

Most advanced formulations use both oils and esters. Oils provide nourishment and authenticity; esters refine texture and stability. Together, they create balanced, high‑performance emulsions that feel luxurious yet natural.

8. Summary

Esters differ from oils because they’re designed molecules — precise, stable, and sensory‑tunable. Oils bring natural richness; esters bring control and elegance. Understanding how they complement each other is key to creating modern, high‑performance skincare.

More Guides

The Complete Guide to Esters in Skincare

What are Cosmetic Esters and How do they Work?

Natural vs Synthetic Esters

Natural vs Synthetic Esters — What Formulators Need to Know

Natural and synthetic esters are often discussed as if they belong to opposing camps — “clean beauty” vs “lab‑made.” In reality, both groups share the same underlying chemistry, and both play essential roles in modern skincare formulation. The difference lies not in safety, but in origin, consistency, and performance.

This page breaks down what “natural” and “synthetic” esters actually mean, how they’re made, and how they behave differently in real formulations.

1. What Are Natural Esters?

Natural esters are produced from naturally derived fatty acids and alcohols, typically sourced from:

• coconut
• palm
• rapeseed
• castor
• sunflower
• olive

They are created through enzymatic or acid‑catalysed esterification, but the feedstocks are plant‑origin.

Common natural esters

• Isoamyl Laurate (from sugarcane + coconut)
• Coco‑Caprylate/Caprate (from coconut)
• Glyceryl Oleate
• Glyceryl Stearate
• Glyceryl Caprylate
• Sucrose Esters

Why formulators choose natural esters

• excellent for “natural” or “vegan” claims
• biodegradable
• low irritation potential
• stable compared to natural oils
• consistent sensory profile
• ideal silicone alternatives

Limitations

• sometimes more expensive
• narrower sensory range than synthetics
• supply chain tied to agricultural variability

2. What Are Synthetic Esters?

Synthetic esters are produced from lab‑refined fatty acids and alcohols, often petrochemical‑derived or highly purified plant‑derived feedstocks.

They are engineered for precision performance, allowing formulators to achieve textures that natural oils cannot provide.

Common synthetic esters

• C12‑15 Alkyl Benzoate
• Ethylhexyl Palmitate
• Isopropyl Myristate (IPM)
• Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate
• Diisopropyl Sebacate
• Octyldodecanol

Why formulators choose synthetic esters

• extremely consistent batch‑to‑batch
• wide sensory range (dry → rich → glossy)
• excellent solvent behaviour
• superior pigment wetting
• predictable polarity and viscosity
• stable in high‑actives formulas
• ideal for sunscreens, primers, and luxury textures

Limitations

• cannot support “100% natural” claims
• some consumers perceive them as “chemical”
• not all synthetic esters are biodegradable

3. Are Natural Esters Safer Than Synthetic Esters?

No — safety is not determined by origin.

Both natural and synthetic esters are:

• non‑sensitising
• non‑genotoxic
• widely approved for cosmetic use
• stable and skin‑compatible

The real differences are performance, sensory profile, and marketing claims, not safety.

4. How Natural and Synthetic Esters Behave Differently in Formulations

4.1 Sensory Profile

Natural esters → soft, silky, “skin‑like” Synthetic esters → dry, elegant, highly engineered

4.2 Stability

Natural esters → stable, but can vary slightly with feedstock Synthetic esters → extremely stable and reproducible

4.3 Compatibility

Natural esters → excellent with natural oils Synthetic esters → excellent with UV filters, pigments, silicones

4.4 Marketing Claims

Natural esters → ideal for “clean beauty,” “natural,” “vegan” Synthetic esters → ideal for “luxury,” “performance,” “clinical” formulas

5. When to Choose Natural vs Synthetic Esters

Choose natural esters when:

• you want a natural‑origin claim
• you’re replacing silicones in clean beauty
• you want soft, skin‑like slip
• you’re formulating for sensitive skin
• you want biodegradable ingredients

Choose synthetic esters when:

• you need dry, elegant slip
• you’re formulating sunscreens or primers
• you need strong solvent behaviour
• you want precise sensory tuning
• you need pigment wetting or fast absorption

6. Summary

Natural and synthetic esters are not competitors — they are tools. Natural esters support marketing claims and gentle sensory profiles. Synthetic esters deliver engineered performance and luxury textures.

A skilled formulator uses both, depending on the product’s purpose.

Further Reading

The Complete Guide to Esters in Skincare

What are Cosmetic Esters and How do they Work?

What Are Cosmetic Esters and How Do They Work?

Cosmetic esters are some of the most versatile ingredients in modern formulation — but most formulators only understand them as “light emollients.” In reality, esters are engineered molecules designed to deliver specific sensory, functional, and structural benefits in skincare.

This page explains what esters actually are, how they’re made, and the mechanisms behind their performance in emulsions, balms, and serums.

1. What Exactly Is an Ester? (The Formulator’s Definition)

A cosmetic ester is a molecule created when a fatty acid reacts with a fatty alcohol, forming a new compound with its own physical and sensory properties.

Chemically, esters contain a COO functional group, which gives them:

• predictable polarity
• stable oxidative behaviour
• tunable viscosity
• controlled spreadability

This is why esters behave more consistently than natural oils — they’re designed, not harvested.

2. Why Esters Feel Different From Oils

Natural oils are complex mixtures of triglycerides, sterols, waxes, and unsaponifiables. Their behaviour varies by crop, season, and refinement.

Esters, by contrast, are:

• single‑molecule ingredients
• highly reproducible
• non‑oxidising
• sensory‑tunable

This makes them ideal for creating predictable textures, especially in commercial formulations where consistency matters.

3. How Cosmetic Esters Are Made

Most cosmetic esters are produced through esterification, where:

• a fatty acid (e.g., lauric acid)
• reacts with a fatty alcohol (e.g., isoamyl alcohol)
• under heat and catalytic conditions
• releasing water and forming an ester

By changing the chain length, branching, or alcohol type, manufacturers can create esters that feel:

• dry
• silky
• cushiony
• rich
• glossy
• powdery

This tunability is why esters dominate modern sensory design.

4. How Esters Work on the Skin

Esters interact with the skin in several ways:

4.1 As Emollients

They fill microscopic gaps between corneocytes, creating a smoother surface and reducing TEWL.

4.2 As Slip Agents

Their low surface tension allows them to spread quickly, reducing drag and improving glide.

4.3 As Solvents

Many esters dissolve UV filters, oils, and actives more effectively than natural oils.

4.4 As Film Formers

Medium‑weight esters create soft, flexible films that enhance moisturization without greasiness.

4.5 As Sensory Modifiers

By blending esters of different weights, formulators can create multi‑stage sensory experiences.

5. Why Esters Improve Emulsion Performance

In emulsions, esters contribute to:

5.1 Stability

Their predictable polarity helps emulsifiers form stronger, more uniform lamellar structures.

5.2 Reduced Soaping

Esters soften the lamellar network, preventing the white streaking seen in high‑fatty‑alcohol formulas.

5.3 Faster Absorption

Light esters migrate quickly across the skin surface, pulling the emulsion with them.

5.4 Better Pigment Wetting

In tinted products, esters help disperse pigments evenly.

6. Types of Cosmetic Esters (With Their Functional Roles)

This section focuses on function, not sensory feel — differentiating it from the pillar.

6.1 Short‑Chain Esters – Coco‑Caprylate, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

• high spreadability
• fast evaporation or absorption
• excellent solvent behaviour

Used in: sunscreens, serums, lightweight lotions.

6.2 Medium‑Chain Esters – Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (CCT)

• balanced slip
• moderate occlusion
• good pigment wetting

Used in: moisturizers, primers, hybrid creams.

6.3 Long‑Chain Esters – Cetyl Palmitate, Isostearyl Isostearate

• rich, cushiony feel
• strong film formation
• slow absorption

Used in: balms, night creams, barrier products.

6.4 Triglyceride Esters – Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (MCT oil), Glyceryl Caprylate

• natural‑oil mimics
• excellent stability
• non‑tacky

Used in: cleansing oils, emulsions, balms.

7. How Esters Behave in Different Formulation Types

7.1 In Emulsions

They influence viscosity, lamellar structure, absorption speed, and sensory finish.

7.2 In Anhydrous Products

They soften waxes, improve glide, reduce drag, and prevent graininess.

7.3 In Cleansing Oils & Balms

They improve rinse‑off, reduce residue, and enhance solubility of makeup and SPF.

7.4 In Haircare

They reduce friction, improve combability, and add shine without heaviness.

8. How Esters Are Selected by Formulators

Formulators choose esters based on:

• polarity
• viscosity
• sensory profile
• compatibility with emulsifiers
• volatility
• oxidative stability
• regulatory status
• natural‑origin claims

This is why two esters that “feel similar” to consumers may behave very differently in a formula.

9. Summary: Why Esters Matter

Cosmetic esters are precision‑engineered emollients that allow formulators to control:

• texture
• absorption
• slip
• stability
• sensory experience

They are the backbone of modern formulation — not because they replace oils, but because they enhance and refine what oils cannot do alone.

Further Reading

Complete Guide to Esters in Skincare

Natural vs Synthetic Esters

Montanov 68 Compatibility Chart

Montanov 68 is a highly versatile natural emulsifier, but its lamellar structure means certain ingredients can challenge stability or texture. This chart helps formulators understand which ingredients pair well, which need adjustment, and which can destabilise or thicken the system.

🧴 Overview

INCI: Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetearyl Glucoside Type: Non‑ionic O/W emulsifier Structure: Lamellar liquid crystal Recommended pH: 4.5 – 8.0 Temperature: 70–75 °C (oil phase) Usage: 3–8% depending on texture

⚗️ Compatibility Summary

Ingredient Category	Compatibility	Notes
Plant oils	✅ Excellent	Works with most triglyceride oils; avoid >40% oil phase for light lotions
Esters	✅ Excellent	Improves slip and reduces soaping (isoamyl laurate, dicaprylyl carbonate)
Silicone alternatives	✅ Excellent	Coco‑caprylate/caprate, Neopentyl glycol diheptanoate enhance sensory feel
Butters	⚠ Moderate	Use ≤5%; high levels increase viscosity and risk of graininess
Fatty alcohols	⚠ Moderate	Use ≤2%; excess increases drag and soaping
Waxes	⚠ Moderate	High wax loads can destabilise lamellar structure
Electrolytes	⚠ Caution	High levels (aloe, sodium PCA, panthenol) can thin or separate emulsions
Humectants	✅ Excellent	Glycerine, Propanediol, Sorbitol improve hydration and stability
Polymers / Thickeners	✅ Excellent	Sepimax Zen ideal; avoid high xanthan or carbomer levels
Preservatives	✅ Excellent	Broad compatibility; avoid high ethanol (>5%)
Fragrance / Essential oils	✅ Excellent	Add below 40 °C; use ≤1% total
Actives (water‑soluble)	⚠ Variable	Add below 40 °C; check pH and ionic strength
Actives (oil‑soluble)	✅ Excellent	Add to oil phase; stable with most esters and triglycerides
Powdered actives	⚠ Caution	Disperse in humectant or pre‑solubilise; avoid clumping
Alcohols (ethanol, isopropanol)	⚠ Caution	>5% can thin or destabilise emulsion
Acids (AHA/BHA)	⚠ Caution	Maintain pH > 4.5; test stability
Salts / Minerals	⚠ Caution	High ionic strength can disrupt lamellar structure
Pigments / Clays	⚠ Moderate	Disperse well; may thicken or destabilise if overloaded

🧪 Functional Ingredient Compatibility

Functional Ingredient	Compatibility	Notes
Sepimax Zen	✅ Excellent	Thickens elegantly; improves slip; stabilises lamellar structure
DUB Cire H1 (C10‑18 Triglycerides)	✅ Excellent	Reduces soaping; smooths waxy emulsions; improves sensory feel
Glyceryl Stearate SE	✅ Excellent	Co‑emulsifier; enhances stability and texture
Polyglyceryl‑6 Distearate	✅ Excellent	Strengthens lamellar structure
Cetyl Alcohol	⚠ Moderate	Adds body; excess increases drag
Cetearyl Alcohol	⚠ Moderate	Adds viscosity; excess increases soaping
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate	✅ Excellent	Improves emulsification and sensory feel
Stearic Acid	⚠ Moderate	Can increase whitening; use ≤2%
Behenyl Alcohol	⚠ Moderate	Adds structure; may increase waxy feel
Hydroxyethylcellulose	⚠ Moderate	Compatible but can reduce slip; use ≤0.3%
Carbomer	⚠ Moderate	Neutralise carefully; avoid high levels
Xanthan Gum	⚠ Moderate	Thickens but increases drag; prefer Sepimax Zen
Sclerotium Gum	✅ Excellent	Adds cushiony texture; compatible with lamellar systems

💊 Difficult‑to‑Work‑With Actives

Active	Compatibility	Notes
Niacinamide	✅ Good	Stable; maintain pH 5–7
Vitamin C (ascorbic acid)	⚠ Caution	pH < 4.5 may destabilise; use derivatives (MAP, SAP)
Retinol / Retinyl Palmitate	✅ Excellent	Add to oil phase; protect from light
Hyaluronic Acid	⚠ Moderate	High molecular weight can thicken excessively; use ≤0.3%
Panthenol	⚠ Moderate	High levels (>2%) can thin emulsion
Urea	⚠ Caution	High concentration increases ionic strength; test stability
Alpha‑Arbutin	⚠ Caution	Sensitive to pH; maintain 5–6
Salicylic Acid	⚠ Caution	Solubilise properly; maintain pH > 4.5
Glycolic Acid / Lactic Acid	⚠ Caution	Maintain pH > 4.5; test stability
Zinc Oxide / Titanium Dioxide	⚠ Moderate	Disperse well; may thicken or destabilise
Peptides	⚠ Variable	Stable if pH 5–7; avoid high electrolytes
Caffeine	✅ Excellent	Stable and compatible
Ceramides	✅ Excellent	Add to oil phase; compatible with lamellar systems
Botanical Extracts	⚠ Variable	Check pH and electrolyte content; may thin emulsion

🧴 Formulation Tips

• Keep Montanov 68 between 4–6% for balanced texture.
• Use Sepimax Zen for thickening instead of gums.
• Add DUB Cire H1 for smoother, less waxy feel.
• Avoid high electrolyte or acid loads.
• Always test stability after 24 hours and 1 week.
• Maintain pH > 4.5 for lamellar integrity.

🔗 Related Reading

• Montanov 68 Complete Guide
• How to Formulate with Montanov 68
• Montanov 68 Troubleshooting Guide
• Soaping in Emulsions
• Montanov 68 vs Olivem 1000
• Montanov 68 Recipes

🛒 Where to Buy Montanov 68

You can purchase high‑purity, natural Montanov 68 from The Formulary: Montanov 68 – Product Page

Montanov 68 Troubleshooting Guide

Montanov 68 is a reliable, natural emulsifier — but like all lamellar systems, it has its quirks. This troubleshooting guide helps you diagnose and fix common issues such as thinning, separation, graininess, and soaping. Each section explains why the issue occurs, how to fix it, and how to prevent it in future batches.

🧴 1. Soaping (White Streaks When Rubbing In)

What’s happening

Montanov 68 forms lamellar liquid‑crystal structures. When rubbed into the skin, these layers can temporarily trap air, scattering light and creating a white streak. This is not instability — it’s a sensory issue.

Fixes

• Reduce cetearyl alcohol or cetyl alcohol by 0.5–1%
• Add slip agents:
  • Isoamyl laurate
  • Coco‑caprylate/caprate
  • Caprylic Capric Triglycerides
  • DUB Cire H1 (C10‑18 Triglycerides)
• Increase oil phase mobility with light esters
• Cool slowly with gentle stirring

Prevention

• Avoid pairing high Montanov 68 with high fatty alcohols
• Include 1–2% fast‑spreading emollients
• Keep butters moderate

🧪 2. Emulsion Separation

What’s happening

Separation usually occurs when:

• phases were not heated to the same temperature
• Montanov 68 was under‑used
• oil phase is too small
• electrolytes disrupted the lamellar structure

Fixes

• Heat both phases to 70–75°C
• Increase Montanov 68 by 0.5–1%
• Increase oil phase by 1–3%
• Add a co‑emulsifier:
  • Glyceryl Stearate SE
  • Polyglyceryl‑6 Distearate
• Reduce electrolytes (aloe, sodium PCA, panthenol, etc.)
• Use a water thickener (sepimax zen, xanthan gum etc) in the heated water phase

Prevention

• Always combine phases at equal temperature
• Avoid high electrolyte loads in very light lotions
• Use supportive co‑emulsifiers for difficult formulas

🧴 3. Lotion Too Thin / Not Enough Viscosity

What’s happening

Montanov 68 produces medium viscosity. If the oil phase is too light or fatty alcohols are low, the emulsion may feel too fluid.

Fixes

• Increase Montanov 68 to 5–6%
• Add cetyl alcohol (1–2%)
• Add Sepimax Zen (0.2–0.4%) for elegant thickening
• Increase oil phase by 2–5%
• Add a small amount of butter (1–3%)

Prevention

• Use a balanced oil phase (light + medium oils)
• Avoid extremely low oil phases (<10%)
• Include a supportive thickener (Sepimax Zen works beautifully with Montanov 68)

❄️ 4. Graininess

What’s happening

Graininess occurs when:

• fatty alcohols or butters recrystallise
• the emulsion cooled too quickly
• Montanov 68 didn’t fully melt

Fixes

• Ensure full melting at 70–75°C
• Cool slowly while stirring gently
• Reduce high‑melting butters (shea, cocoa)
• Add esters to soften the oil phase
• Replace some cetearyl alcohol with DUB Cire H1 for smoother crystallisation

Prevention

• Avoid shock cooling
• Use esters to reduce waxy crystallisation
• Keep butters below 5% unless intentionally rich

🧼 5. Waxy or Heavy Skin Feel

What’s happening

Too much cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, or heavy butters can make Montanov 68 formulas feel waxy.

Fixes

• Reduce fatty alcohols by 0.5–1%
• Replace part of the waxy phase with:
  • Isoamyl laurate
  • Coco‑caprylate/caprate
  • DUB Cire H1 (adds slip without greasiness)
• Increase water phase slightly
• Add 1–2% light esters

Prevention

• Use fatty alcohols sparingly
• Balance butters with esters
• Keep oil phase mobility high

🌱 6. Poor Absorption / Slow Rub‑In

What’s happening

Lamellar emulsions can feel cushiony and slow to absorb if the oil phase is too heavy.

Fixes

• Add fast‑spreading esters
• Reduce shea/cocoa butter
• Add Sepimax Zen to improve glide
• Include DUB Cire H1 for silky absorption

Prevention

• Use a blend of light + medium oils
• Avoid heavy waxes
• Keep butters low

⚗️ 7. Emulsion Too Thick

What’s happening

Montanov 68 thickens over 24 hours due to lamellar structuring. Excess fatty alcohols or gums can push viscosity too high.

Fixes

• Reduce Montanov 68 by 0.5–1%
• Reduce fatty alcohols
• Reduce Sepimax Zen
• Increase water phase by 2–5%

Prevention

• Always evaluate viscosity after 24 hours
• Use Sepimax Zen sparingly (it’s powerful)
• Avoid stacking multiple thickeners

⭐ Ingredient‑Specific Troubleshooting

DUB Cire H1 (C10‑18 Triglycerides)

A pelletised triglyceride that:

• reduces soaping
• improves slip
• softens waxy emulsions
• enhances stability
• reduces graininess
• adds elegant sensory feel

Use at 1–5% in the oil phase.

Sepimax Zen

A modern polymer thickener that:

• thickens without gum‑like drag
• improves slip
• stabilises emulsions
• reduces soaping
• enhances elegance

Use at 0.2–0.4% for Montanov 68 systems.

🔗 Related Reading

• Montanov 68 Complete Guide
• How to Formulate with Montanov 68
• Soaping in Emulsions
• Montanov 68 Compatibility Chart
• Montanov 68 vs Olivem 1000
• Montanov 68 Recipes

🛒 Where to Buy Montanov 68

You can purchase high‑purity, natural Montanov 68 from The Formulary:

Montanov 68 – Product Page

Formulate with Montanov 68

Montanov 68 is one of the most versatile natural emulsifiers available to formulators. It creates stable, lamellar emulsions with a soft, velvety skin feel and excellent hydration properties. This guide explains how to use Montanov 68 effectively, including phase setup, temperature control, co‑emulsifiers, and formulation tips for different textures.

🌿 Understanding Montanov 68

INCI: Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetearyl Glucoside Type: Non‑ionic O/W emulsifier Origin: Plant‑derived, glucose‑based Certifications: ECOCERT, COSMOS, Vegan, Biodegradable

Montanov 68 forms lamellar liquid‑crystal structures that mimic the skin’s lipid layers. This structure improves hydration and enhances the sensory profile of creams and lotions.

🧪 Basic Formulation Guidelines

Usage Rate

Product Type	Montanov 68 %
Rich creams	6–8%
Medium lotions	4–6%
Light lotions	3–4%
Fluid milks	2–3%

Higher percentages increase viscosity and stability.

Phase Setup

Montanov 68 must be melted in the oil phase.

Typical phase structure:

Phase	Ingredients	Notes
Oil phase	Montanov 68, oils, butters, fatty alcohols	Heat to 70–75 °C
Water phase	Water, humectants, gums	Heat to 70–75 °C
Cool‑down phase	Actives, fragrance, preservatives	Add below 40 °C

Combine oil and water phases at equal temperature and mix until emulsified.

Temperature

• Heat both phases to 70–75 °C.
• Combine at equal temperature.
• Avoid overheating (>80 °C) — it can degrade the glucoside component.
• Stir gently during cool‑down to maintain lamellar structure.

⚗️ Co‑Emulsifiers and Stabilisers

Montanov 68 works well alone, but co‑emulsifiers can fine‑tune texture and stability.

Co‑Emulsifier	Function
Glyceryl Stearate SE	Improves stability and reduces soaping
Polyglyceryl‑6 Distearate	Enhances lamellar structure
Cetyl Alcohol	Thickens and adds creaminess
Cetearyl Alcohol	Adds body and stability
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate	Improves emulsification and sensory feel

🧴 Texture Control

To make thicker creams

• Increase Montanov 68 to 6–8%
• Add cetyl or cetearyl alcohol (1–2%)
• Include butters or waxes
• Add a gum (xanthan, sclerotium)

To make lighter lotions

• Reduce Montanov 68 to 3–4%
• Use light esters (isoamyl laurate, dicaprylyl carbonate)
• Reduce fatty alcohols
• Increase water phase slightly

⚠️ Avoiding Soaping

Soaping (white streaks when rubbed in) can occur with lamellar emulsifiers like Montanov 68. It’s caused by air entrapment, not instability.

To reduce soaping

• Lower fatty alcohols
• Add slip agents (isoamyl laurate, coco‑caprylate/caprate)
• Include 1–2% light ester
• Cool slowly while stirring gently

See the dedicated cluster page: Soaping in Emulsions – What It Is and How to Prevent It

🌱 Compatibility Notes

Montanov 68 is compatible with:

• plant oils
• esters
• butters
• humectants
• botanical extracts
• most preservatives
• most thickeners

Use caution with:

• high electrolyte loads
• very low viscosity formulas
• high alcohol content

See the Montanov 68 Compatibility Chart for detailed ingredient interactions.

🧼 Troubleshooting Common Issues

Problem	Likely Cause	Fix
Separation	Phases not heated equally	Reheat both to 70–75 °C
Thin texture	Low emulsifier or oil phase	Increase Montanov 68 or oil phase
Soaping	High fatty alcohols	Reduce alcohols, add slip agent
Graininess	Rapid cooling	Cool slowly, ensure full melting

See the Montanov 68 Troubleshooting Guide for detailed solutions.

💡 Formulation Tips

• Combine Montanov 68 with Propanediol for improved hydration and slip.
• Use light esters for elegant sensory feel.
• Avoid excessive waxes — they increase drag.
• Always test viscosity after 24 hours; lamellar systems thicken slightly over time.
• Store finished emulsions at room temperature for stability testing.

🔗 Related Reading

• Montanov 68 Complete Guide
• Soaping in Emulsions
• Montanov 68 Troubleshooting Guide
• Montanov 68 Compatibility Chart
• Montanov 68 vs Olivem 1000
• Montanov 68 Recipes

🛒 Where to Buy Montanov 68

You can purchase high‑purity, natural Montanov 68 from The Formulary:

Montanov 68 – Product Page

Soaping in emulsions is one of the most common sensory issues formulators encounter when working with natural emulsifiers such as Montanov 68, Olivem 1000, and older systems like Cetearyl Alcohol + Polysorbate 60. It can make a cream appear white or streaky when rubbed into the skin, even if the formula is perfectly stable.

This guide explains what soaping actually is, the two different mechanisms behind it, and how to reduce or eliminate it through smart formulation choices.

🧴 What Is Soaping?

Soaping refers to the temporary whitening or drag that appears when a cream or lotion is rubbed into the skin. It looks like soap lather, but it isn’t caused by surfactants.

Importantly, “soaping” can arise from two different mechanisms, depending on the emulsifier system.

⭐ The Two Causes of Soaping in Emulsions

1️⃣ Lamellar Whitening (Modern Natural Emulsifiers)

This is the type of soaping seen with Montanov 68, Olivem 1000, and other glucoside‑based natural emulsifiers.

What’s happening

• These emulsifiers form lamellar liquid‑crystal structures.
• When rubbed, the layers temporarily trap air.
• Air pockets scatter light → white streaks.
• The emulsion does not split.
• Whitening disappears once absorbed.

Key point

This type of soaping is sensory, not a stability failure.

2️⃣ Micro‑Phase Separation (Older Emulsifier Systems)

This is the type of soaping seen with older emulsifiers such as:

• Cetearyl Alcohol + Polysorbate 60
• Glyceryl Stearate + PEG‑100 Stearate
• Stearic Acid + TEA

What’s happening

• Under shear (rubbing), the emulsion momentarily destabilises.
• Tiny oil‑water domains form.
• These scatter light → white streaks.
• This is a true micro‑split, though temporary.

Key point

This type of soaping is structural, caused by emulsifier imbalance or excessive waxy components.

⭐ How to Tell Which Type You’re Seeing

Feature	Lamellar Whitening (Montanov 68)	Micro‑Splitting (Polysorbate 60)
Cause	Air entrapment in lamellar layers	Temporary phase separation
Stability impact	None	Minor, but indicates imbalance
Texture	Draggy, cushiony	Waxy, heavy
Fix	Add slip agents, reduce fatty alcohols	Adjust emulsifier system, reduce waxes

⭐ Why Soaping Happens (Both Mechanisms)

✔ High fatty alcohol content

Cetearyl or cetyl alcohol increases lamellar density and drag.

✔ Heavy butters or waxes

Shea, cocoa, or high‑melting waxes exaggerate whitening.

✔ Lack of slip agents

Without esters or lightweight emollients, the formula feels draggy.

✔ Overly thick oil phases

Dense oil phases resist spreading and trap air.

✔ Emulsifier imbalance (older systems)

Polysorbate 60 systems can micro‑split under shear.

⭐ How to Reduce or Eliminate Soaping

1️⃣ Reduce Fatty Alcohols

Lower cetearyl alcohol or cetyl alcohol by 0.5–1%.

Replace part with:

• Caprylic Capric Triglyceride
• Coco‑caprylate/caprate

2️⃣ Add Slip Agents (Most Effective Fix)

Even 1–2% can dramatically reduce whitening.

Best options:

• Isoamyl laurate
• Coco‑caprylate/caprate
• Dicaprylyl carbonate
• Squalane
• CCT (caprylic/capric triglyceride)

These reduce drag and prevent air entrapment.

3️⃣ Improve Oil Phase Mobility

Blend:

• light esters (fast‑spreading)
• medium oils (structure)
• butters (richness)

Avoid overly waxy systems.

4️⃣ Add a Co‑Emulsifier

Helps modify lamellar structure and reduce whitening.

Examples:

• Glyceryl Stearate SE
• Polyglyceryl‑6 Distearate

5️⃣ Adjust Cooling Process

Cool slowly with gentle stirring. Rapid cooling exaggerates lamellar formation.

6️⃣ Increase Oil Phase Slightly

Adding 1–2% more oil can reduce drag.

⭐ Ingredients That Reduce Soaping

Category	Examples	Benefit
Light esters	Caprylic Capric Triglycerides	Slip, glide
Silicone alternatives	Coco‑caprylate/caprate	Reduced drag
Emollients	Squalane,	Spreadability
Co‑emulsifiers	Glyceryl Stearate SE	Lamellar modification
Humectants	Propanediol, Glycerine	Hydration reduces friction

⭐ FAQs

Does soaping mean my emulsion is unstable? Not necessarily — lamellar whitening is purely sensory.

Is Montanov 68 more prone to soaping? It can be, if paired with high fatty alcohols — but it’s easily fixed.

Can older emulsifiers soap more? Yes — Polysorbate 60 systems often show micro‑splitting.

Can silicones fix soaping? Yes — even silicone alternatives work well.

⭐ Related Reading

• Montanov 68 Complete Guide
• How to Formulate with Montanov 68
• Montanov 68 Troubleshooting Guide
• Montanov 68 Compatibility Chart
• Montanov 68 vs Olivem 1000

⭐ Where to Buy Montanov 68

You can purchase high‑purity, natural Montanov 68 from The Formulary:

Montanov 68 – Product Page

Formulating with Hydrolysed Jojoba Esters

Jojoba oil is a popular ingredient in the cosmetic and personal care industry due to its numerous benefits for the skin, hair, and nails.

However, recently, hydrolysed jojoba esters have been gaining popularity as an alternative to traditional jojoba oil due to their unique properties and benefits.

What are Hydrolysed Jojoba Esters?

Hydrolysed jojoba esters are derived from jojoba oil, a liquid wax extracted from the seeds of the jojoba plant. Jojoba oil has been used for centuries in traditional medicine for its moisturizing and healing properties. It is rich in fatty acids, antioxidants, and vitamins, making it an excellent ingredient for the skin, hair, and nails.

The esters, on the other hand, are created by hydrolysing jojoba oil with water and an enzyme. This process breaks down the fatty acids in jojoba oil into smaller molecules, creating an ester that is more easily absorbed by the skin. The resulting esters have a light, silky texture that feels smooth and luxurious on the skin.

Benefits of Hydrolysed Jojoba Esters

Moisturising: Hydrolised jojoba esters esters are excellent moisturizers for the skin. They form a protective barrier on the skin’s surface that helps to lock in moisture and prevent dehydration. This makes them an ideal ingredient for dry and sensitive skin.

Nourishing: They are rich in fatty acids, which are essential for maintaining healthy skin. These fatty acids help to nourish and protect the skin, leaving it feeling soft, smooth, and supple.

Non-Comedogenic: Hydrolysed jojoba esters are non-comedogenic, which means that they do not clog pores. This makes them an ideal ingredient for acne-prone and sensitive skin.

Antioxidant: They contain antioxidants, which help to protect the skin from environmental stressors such as pollution, UV rays, and free radicals. This can help to prevent premature aging and improve the overall health of the skin.

Anti-Inflammatory: Hydrolysed jojoba esters have anti-inflammatory properties, which can help to reduce redness, irritation, and inflammation in the skin. This makes them an ideal ingredient for sensitive and reactive skin.

Uses of Hydrolysed Jojoba Esters in Cosmetics and Personal Care

Hydrolysed jojoba esters are versatile ingredients that can be used in a wide range of cosmetic and personal care products. Some of their common uses include:

Moisturisers: They are commonly used in moisturizers and lotions due to their excellent moisturizing properties. They help to hydrate the skin and lock in moisture, leaving the skin feeling soft and supple.

Serums: They can be used in serums to deliver active ingredients deep into the skin. Their lightweight texture allows them to be easily absorbed by the skin, making them an ideal ingredient for serums.

Haircare: Hydrolysed jojoba esters can be used in haircare products such as shampoos, conditioners, and hair masks. They help to nourish and protect the hair, leaving it looking shiny and healthy.

Lip Balms: They can be used in lip balms to hydrate and nourish the lips. Their lightweight texture allows them to be easily absorbed by the lips, leaving them feeling soft and smooth.

Sunscreens: They can be used in sunscreens to provide a natural SPF. They help to protect the skin from UV damage and prevent premature aging.

Makeup: Hydrolysed jojoba esters can be used in makeup products such as foundations, concealers, and lipsticks. They help to create a smooth, silky texture that feels luxurious on the skin.

Massage Oils: They can be used in massage oils due to their excellent glide and absorbency. They help to moisturize the skin and provide a relaxing, soothing massage experience.

Hydrolysed jojoba esters are a versatile ingredient that can be used in a variety of personal care formulations. Here are some tips on how to formulate with them:

Determine the ideal concentration: The optimal concentration of hydrolysed jojoba esters in a formulation depends on the specific application. For example, in a moisturiser, it may be used at a concentration of 1-5%, while in a lip balm, they may be used at a higher concentration of 10-20%.

Select a suitable emulsifier: Hydrolysed jojoba esters can be incorporated into emulsion-based formulations such as lotions and creams. Ideally, use a lamellar emulsion such as Olivem 1000, or Montanov 68 as these modern emulsifiers create creams that offer significant moisturising benefits over the more traditional emulsifiers

Consider the pH of the formulation: The esters are stable over a wide pH range, but for optimal performance, it is recommended to formulate at a pH between 4.0 and 8.0. Typically formulators create creams and lotions with a pH of roughly 6 so there should never be any issues. If formulating a cream that incorporates an AHA such as Glycolic Acid then make sure you adjust the pH up to at least 4 bearing in mind that will reduce the performance of the glycolic acid somewhat.

Incorporation: They can be added to formulations during the oil phase or the final stage of the formulation process. It is important to ensure that they are thoroughly mixed into the formulation to ensure even distribution. We tend to add jojoba esters to the formulation shortly after creating the emulsion.

Combinations with other ingredients: Hydrolysed jojoba esters can be combined with other ingredients such as emollients, humectants, and active ingredients to create customized formulations that meet specific needs.

Stability: Hydrolysed jojoba esters are stable and do not require any special storage conditions. However, it is important to ensure that the formulation is properly preserved to prevent microbial growth.

Compatibility: Hydrolysed jojoba esters are compatible with a wide range of other ingredients commonly used in personal care formulations, including oils, butters, waxes, and emulsifiers.

Examples of Formulations with Hydrolysed Jojoba Esters:

Moisturiser: Hydrolysed jojoba esters can be incorporated into a moisturizer formulation to provide hydrating and nourishing properties. A typical formula might include 5% hydrolized jojoba esters, 2% emulsifying wax, 2% glycerin, 2% shea butter, 1% stearic acid, and 0.5% preservative.

Lip Balm: They can be used in a lip balm formulation to provide moisturizing and protective properties. A typical formula might include 10% hydrolysed jojoba esters, 20% beeswax, 20% shea butter, 10% cocoa butter, and 1% vitamin E oil.

Hair Conditioner: They can be used in a hair conditioner formulation to provide moisturizing and nourishing properties. A typical formula might include 3% hydrolysed jojoba esters, 2% cetrimonium chloride, 1% glycerin, 2% panthenol, and 0.5% preservative.

Synergy of glycerine and jojoba esters

The combination of glycerin and hydrolysed jojoba esters creates a synergistic effect on the skin, providing multiple benefits such as hydration, nourishment, and protection.

Glycerine is a humectant that attracts water from the environment and helps to keep the skin hydrated. When combined with hydrolized jojoba esters, which are known for their excellent moisturizing properties, the resulting formulation helps to lock in moisture and prevent dehydration. Studies indicate that the combination of glycerine and jojoba esters in a 3 to 1 ratio creates a 24 hour moisturising effect

The combination of glycerin and hydrolized jojoba esters also helps to improve the texture and appearance of the skin. Glycerin helps to smooth and soften the skin, while hydrolized jojoba esters provide a silky, non-greasy feel to the formulation.

Overall, hydrolysed jojoba esters are a valuable ingredient in the cosmetic and personal care industry due to their moisturizing, nourishing, and protective properties. Their lightweight texture, non-comedogenic nature, and versatility make them an ideal ingredient for a wide range of products. Whether you have dry, sensitive, or acne-prone skin, hydrolized jojoba esters can help to improve the texture and appearance of your skin, leaving it feeling soft, smooth, and healthy.