Jojoba Esters

Formulating with Hydrolysed Jojoba Esters

Jojoba oil is a popular ingredient in the cosmetic and personal care industry due to its numerous benefits for the skin, hair, and nails.

However, recently, hydrolysed jojoba esters have been gaining popularity as an alternative to traditional jojoba oil due to their unique properties and benefits.

What are Hydrolysed Jojoba Esters?

Hydrolysed jojoba esters are derived from jojoba oil, a liquid wax extracted from the seeds of the jojoba plant. Jojoba oil has been used for centuries in traditional medicine for its moisturizing and healing properties. It is rich in fatty acids, antioxidants, and vitamins, making it an excellent ingredient for the skin, hair, and nails.

The esters, on the other hand, are created by hydrolysing jojoba oil with water and an enzyme. This process breaks down the fatty acids in jojoba oil into smaller molecules, creating an ester that is more easily absorbed by the skin. The resulting esters have a light, silky texture that feels smooth and luxurious on the skin.

Benefits of Hydrolysed Jojoba Esters

Moisturising: Hydrolised jojoba esters esters are excellent moisturizers for the skin. They form a protective barrier on the skin’s surface that helps to lock in moisture and prevent dehydration. This makes them an ideal ingredient for dry and sensitive skin.

Nourishing: They are rich in fatty acids, which are essential for maintaining healthy skin. These fatty acids help to nourish and protect the skin, leaving it feeling soft, smooth, and supple.

Non-Comedogenic: Hydrolysed jojoba esters are non-comedogenic, which means that they do not clog pores. This makes them an ideal ingredient for acne-prone and sensitive skin.

Antioxidant: They contain antioxidants, which help to protect the skin from environmental stressors such as pollution, UV rays, and free radicals. This can help to prevent premature aging and improve the overall health of the skin.

Anti-Inflammatory: Hydrolysed jojoba esters have anti-inflammatory properties, which can help to reduce redness, irritation, and inflammation in the skin. This makes them an ideal ingredient for sensitive and reactive skin.

Uses of Hydrolysed Jojoba Esters in Cosmetics and Personal Care

Hydrolysed jojoba esters are versatile ingredients that can be used in a wide range of cosmetic and personal care products. Some of their common uses include:

Moisturisers: They are commonly used in moisturizers and lotions due to their excellent moisturizing properties. They help to hydrate the skin and lock in moisture, leaving the skin feeling soft and supple.

Serums: They can be used in serums to deliver active ingredients deep into the skin. Their lightweight texture allows them to be easily absorbed by the skin, making them an ideal ingredient for serums.

Haircare: Hydrolysed jojoba esters can be used in haircare products such as shampoos, conditioners, and hair masks. They help to nourish and protect the hair, leaving it looking shiny and healthy.

Lip Balms: They can be used in lip balms to hydrate and nourish the lips. Their lightweight texture allows them to be easily absorbed by the lips, leaving them feeling soft and smooth.

Sunscreens: They can be used in sunscreens to provide a natural SPF. They help to protect the skin from UV damage and prevent premature aging.

Makeup: Hydrolysed jojoba esters can be used in makeup products such as foundations, concealers, and lipsticks. They help to create a smooth, silky texture that feels luxurious on the skin.

Massage Oils: They can be used in massage oils due to their excellent glide and absorbency. They help to moisturize the skin and provide a relaxing, soothing massage experience.

Hydrolysed jojoba esters are a versatile ingredient that can be used in a variety of personal care formulations. Here are some tips on how to formulate with them:

Determine the ideal concentration: The optimal concentration of hydrolysed jojoba esters in a formulation depends on the specific application. For example, in a moisturiser, it may be used at a concentration of 1-5%, while in a lip balm, they may be used at a higher concentration of 10-20%.

Select a suitable emulsifier: Hydrolysed jojoba esters can be incorporated into emulsion-based formulations such as lotions and creams. Ideally, use a lamellar emulsion such as Olivem 1000, or Montanov 68 as these modern emulsifiers create creams that offer significant moisturising benefits over the more traditional emulsifiers

Consider the pH of the formulation: The esters are stable over a wide pH range, but for optimal performance, it is recommended to formulate at a pH between 4.0 and 8.0. Typically formulators create creams and lotions with a pH of roughly 6 so there should never be any issues. If formulating a cream that incorporates an AHA such as Glycolic Acid then make sure you adjust the pH up to at least 4 bearing in mind that will reduce the performance of the glycolic acid somewhat.

Incorporation: They can be added to formulations during the oil phase or the final stage of the formulation process. It is important to ensure that they are thoroughly mixed into the formulation to ensure even distribution. We tend to add jojoba esters to the formulation shortly after creating the emulsion.

Combinations with other ingredients: Hydrolysed jojoba esters can be combined with other ingredients such as emollients, humectants, and active ingredients to create customized formulations that meet specific needs.

Stability: Hydrolysed jojoba esters are stable and do not require any special storage conditions. However, it is important to ensure that the formulation is properly preserved to prevent microbial growth.

Compatibility: Hydrolysed jojoba esters are compatible with a wide range of other ingredients commonly used in personal care formulations, including oils, butters, waxes, and emulsifiers.

Examples of Formulations with Hydrolysed Jojoba Esters:

Moisturiser: Hydrolysed jojoba esters can be incorporated into a moisturizer formulation to provide hydrating and nourishing properties. A typical formula might include 5% hydrolized jojoba esters, 2% emulsifying wax, 2% glycerin, 2% shea butter, 1% stearic acid, and 0.5% preservative.

Lip Balm: They can be used in a lip balm formulation to provide moisturizing and protective properties. A typical formula might include 10% hydrolysed jojoba esters, 20% beeswax, 20% shea butter, 10% cocoa butter, and 1% vitamin E oil.

Hair Conditioner: They can be used in a hair conditioner formulation to provide moisturizing and nourishing properties. A typical formula might include 3% hydrolysed jojoba esters, 2% cetrimonium chloride, 1% glycerin, 2% panthenol, and 0.5% preservative.

Synergy of glycerine and jojoba esters

The combination of glycerin and hydrolysed jojoba esters creates a synergistic effect on the skin, providing multiple benefits such as hydration, nourishment, and protection.

Glycerine is a humectant that attracts water from the environment and helps to keep the skin hydrated. When combined with hydrolized jojoba esters, which are known for their excellent moisturizing properties, the resulting formulation helps to lock in moisture and prevent dehydration. Studies indicate that the combination of glycerine and jojoba esters in a 3 to 1 ratio creates a 24 hour moisturising effect

The combination of glycerin and hydrolized jojoba esters also helps to improve the texture and appearance of the skin. Glycerin helps to smooth and soften the skin, while hydrolized jojoba esters provide a silky, non-greasy feel to the formulation.

Overall, hydrolysed jojoba esters are a valuable ingredient in the cosmetic and personal care industry due to their moisturizing, nourishing, and protective properties. Their lightweight texture, non-comedogenic nature, and versatility make them an ideal ingredient for a wide range of products. Whether you have dry, sensitive, or acne-prone skin, hydrolized jojoba esters can help to improve the texture and appearance of your skin, leaving it feeling soft, smooth, and healthy.