is an emulsifier that creates lamellar emulsions. This type of emulsion mimics the arrangement of lipids in the surface layer of skin and this aspect makes emulsions formed with it bio-compatible.
Lamellar emulsions, also known as layered or structured emulsions, are a type of emulsion that is characterized by the presence of multiple layers or lamellae. These layers consist of alternating sheets of water and oil, or other immiscible liquids, separated by surfactants or other stabilizing agents.
In a lamellar emulsion, the layers form spontaneously due to the interactions between the surfactants and the two immiscible liquids. The surfactants align themselves at the interface between the water and oil layers, with their hydrophilic (water-loving) heads pointing towards the water and their hydrophobic (water-repelling) tails pointing towards the oil. This arrangement creates a stable boundary between the layers, preventing them from mixing and forming a homogenous mixture.
The number and thickness of the layers in a lamellar emulsion can vary depending on the composition of the emulsion and the conditions under which it is formed. The layers can be very thin, sometimes only a few nanometers thick, and can be organized in a variety of patterns, such as hexagonal, cubic, or lamellar.
Lamellar emulsions have a range of applications, including in cosmetics, food products, and drug delivery systems. In cosmetics, they can be used to create creams and lotions with a smooth and luxurious texture. In food products, they can be used to improve the texture and stability of products such as salad dressings and sauces. In drug delivery, they can be used to improve the bioavailability and targeting of drugs by controlling their release rate and directing them to specific tissues or cells.
Rather than simply being a functional ingredient that creates an emulsion, Olivem 1000 may be regarded as an active ingredient in its own right.
Research has demonstrated that Olivem 1000 based emulsions have a remarkable capacity for reducing trans epidermal water loss (TEWL). Tests demonstrated a reduction in TEWL of 29% compared to standard oil-in water emulsions. The ability of Olivem 1000 emulsions to prevent TEWL: can last for several hours after application thus providing long term moisturising and hydrating benefits.
The moisturising benefits can be enhanced by the inclusion of 2% to 4% Glycerine in the water phase of your formulation.
This emulsifier is compatible with a wide range of actives and is stable in the range pH 3 to 12.
When heating the emulsifier in the oil phase of your formulation be careful not to exceed 80C.
May be used as the sole emulsifier in your formulation but we recommend the use of 1% – 2% Cetyl Alcohol to thicken and stabilise the finished product.
Olivem 1000 INCI Name: SORBITAN OLIVATE, CETEARYL OLIVATE
Usage Rate: 2% – 3% for lotions. 4% to 5 % for creams.
Use water thickener (Xanthan, Hydroxyethyl Cellulose, Carbomer, Siligel, Sepimax Zen, etc) in the water phase ( 0.5% to 1%) to enhance stability. Not including a water phase thickener can make the initial formation of the emulsion much more difficult.
After combining the heated water and oil phases with a high speed blender, it is important to occasionally stir the emulsion while it cools. If you have a stand mixer then use dough hooks to do this job (make sure the mixer is on its slowest speed setting). Avoid using the whisk attachment as these (even on slow speeds) can introduce air into your cream. In the absence of a stand mixer then stir occasionally with a spatula (every 2 minutes or so).
Olivem Alternative: For a great substitute for Olivem 1000 try our Montanov 68.