natragem ew

Natragem EW. Ecocert Approved Emulsifier

£2.50 – £15.00

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Description

Natragem Ew is a highly efficient and effective 100% natural emulsifier.  It can create pourable lotions to high viscosity creams which are non-whitening* on the skin and have great sensory benefits. It is as mild as water on the skin.

* In our trials we actually found the emulsifier to be particularly problematic in regard to micro-foaming (the whitening effect some creams display when rubbed into the skin). However when we combined Natragem EW with a low HLB emulsifier (we used Glyceryl Stearate) whitening was significantly reduced.  Although we have not undertaken exhaustive tests to derive the ideal ratio to mitigate soaping completely, a ratio of 3:1 or 4:1 (Natragem EW: Glyceryl Stearate worked well.

Rather than increase the amount of emulsifier(s) to make a cream thicker (which seems to be a common practice) use fatty alcohols such as cetyl alcohol to increase the viscosity of the cream.

Example: for a 15% oil content we would recommend

15% Oils / Esters

3.5% Natragem EW

1% Glyceryl Stearate

1% Cetyl Alcohol (2% for a thicker cream)

INCI Glyceryl Stearate (and) Polyglyceryl-6 Palmitate/ Succinate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol

Appearance: Pale yellow flakes

Formulation: Add to heated oil phase

Recommended usage: 3.5%-5% for 12 -15% oil content.

Tips: Incompatible with Gluconolactone.

Additional information

Weight N/A
Weight

100g, 250g, 500g, 1kg

Sample Recipe

Phase A
Water                      76.90%
Glycerine                 2.50%
Spectrastat OEL       2.00%
GMCY                      0.30%

Sepimax Zen           0.30%

Phase B
Sweet Almond Oil   6.00%
Rice Bran Oil           3.00%
Macadamia Oil       3.00%
Natragem EW         3.00%
Glyceryl Stearate     2.00%
Cetyl Alcohol          1.00%

Combine ingredients for Phase A and heat to 80C.

Sprinkle Sepimax Zen onto water while using a stick blender on full speed. Continue blending for 1 minute.

Combine ingredients for Phase B and heat to 80C

Add Phase B to Phase A while using stick blender on full speed. Continue blending for 2 minutes.

During cooling stir occasionally with a spatula or other suitable implement.

If adding heat sensitive ingredients (usually all actives) then wait until the cream is at 40C (slightly warm)

Notes:

You can substitute any oils. If you would like to use esters then reduce the amount of the oil by the amount of ester you are adding. If you would like more information about employing esters in creams then please do contact us. Esters can really improve the skin feel of your creams

You can substitute part of the water element with floral waters, botanical extracts etc

You can swap the preservative for Dermosoft OMP at 3% or Neopres ECT at 1%

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