Natragem Ew is a highly efficient and effective 100% natural emulsifier. It can create pourable lotions to high viscosity creams which are non-whitening* on the skin and have great sensory benefits. It is as mild as water on the skin.
* In our trials we actually found the emulsifier to be particularly problematic in regard to micro-foaming (the whitening effect some creams display when rubbed into the skin). However when we combined Natragem EW with a low HLB emulsifier (we used Glyceryl Stearate) whitening all but disappeared. Although we have not undertaken exhaustive tests to derive the ideal ratio to mitigate soaping completely, a ratio of 1.5:1 (Natragem EW: Glyceryl Stearate worked well.
Example: for a 15% oil content we would recommend
15% Oils / Esters
3% Natragem EW
2% Glyceryl Stearate
1% Cetyl Alcohol (2% for a thicker cream)
Spectrastat OEL 2.00%
Sepimax Zen 0.30%
Sweet Almond Oil 6.00%
Rice Bran Oil 3.00%
Macadamia Oil 3.00%
Natragem EW 3.00%
Glyceryl Stearate 2.00%
Cetyl Alcohol 1.00%
Combine ingredients for Phase A and heat to 80C.
Sprinkle Sepimax Zen onto water while using a stick blender on full speed. Continue blending for 1 minute.
Combine ingredients for Phase B and heat to 80C
Add Phase B to Phase A while using stick blender on full speed. Continue blending for 2 minutes.
During cooling stir occasionally with a spatula or other suitable implement.
If adding heat sensitive ingredients (usually all actives) then wait until the cream is at 40C (slightly warm)
You can substitute any oils. If you would like to use esters then reduce the amount of the oil by the amount of ester you are adding. If you would like more information about employing esters in creams then please do contact us. Esters can really improve the skin feel of your creams
You can substitute part of the water element with floral waters, botanical extracts etc
You can swap the preservative for Dermosoft OMP at 3% or Neopres ECT at 1%
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