is a highly efficient and effective 100% natural emulsifier. It can create pourable lotions to high viscosity creams which are non-whitening* on the skin and have great sensory benefits. It is as mild as water on the skin.
* In our trials we actually found the emulsifier to be particularly problematic in regard to micro-foaming (the whitening effect some creams display when rubbed into the skin). However when we combined Natragem EW with a low HLB emulsifier (we used Glyceryl Stearate) whitening was significantly reduced. Although we have not undertaken exhaustive tests to derive the ideal ratio to mitigate soaping completely, a ratio of 3:1 or 4:1 (Natragem EW: Glyceryl Stearate worked well.
Rather than increase the amount of emulsifier(s) to make a cream thicker (which seems to be a common practice) use fatty alcohols such as cetyl alcohol to increase the viscosity of the cream. Cetyl Alcohol also helps reduce micro-foaming in pretty much any oil-in-water emulsions.
Example: for a 15% oil content we would recommend
15% Oils / Esters
3.5% Natragem EW
1% Glyceryl Stearate
1% Cetyl Alcohol (2% for a thicker cream)
INCI Glyceryl Stearate (and) Polyglyceryl-6 Palmitate/ Succinate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol
Appearance: Pale yellow flakes
Formulation: Add to heated oil phase
Recommended usage: 3.5%-5% for 12 -15% oil content.
Tips: Incompatible with Gluconolactone.