Montanov 68: A Complete Guide for Natural Emulsions

Montanov 68 is one of the most widely used natural emulsifiers in modern skincare formulation. Known for its lamellar structure, excellent skin feel, and strong stability profile, it is a favourite among formulators creating natural, COSMOS‑approved creams and lotions.

🌿 What Is Montanov 68?

It is a natural, non‑ionic O/W emulsifier used to create stable creams and lotions with a soft, velvety skin feel.

Montanov 68 INCI

Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetearyl Glucoside

Origin

• Plant‑derived
• Glucose‑based
• ECOCERT & COSMOS approved
• Biodegradable
• Vegan‑friendly

The emulsifier is part of the Montanov family of emulsifiers known for creating lamellar structures that mimic the skin’s natural lipid layers.

⭐ Why Formulators Choose Montanov 68

• Excellent stability
• Soft, elegant skin feel
• Lamellar structure (skin‑mimicking)
• High compatibility with oils, esters, butters
• Natural certification
• Versatility (creams, lotions, milks)
• Good performance with actives
• Low soaping compared to other natural emulsifiers

It is often chosen over Olivem 1000 for its more predictable stability and less waxy feel.

🔬 How It Works

Montanov 68 forms lamellar liquid crystal structures, which:

• improve stability
• enhance hydration
• reduce transepidermal water loss
• create a soft, cushiony texture
• improve active delivery

Lamellar emulsions are considered more “skin‑friendly” because they mimic the skin’s natural lipid organisation.

📏 Usage Rates

Typical usage levels:

Product Type	Montanov 68 %
Rich creams	6–7%
Medium lotions	4–5%
Light lotions	3%
Fluid milks	2%

Higher percentages increase viscosity and stability.

🧪 Phase & Processing Requirements

Oil Phase

It must be heated in the oil phase.

Temperature

Heat both phases to 70–75°C.

Emulsification

• Combine phases at equal temperature
• Use moderate shear (not too high)
• Mix until emulsified
• Continue gentle stirring during cool‑down

Cool‑Down Phase

Add heat‑sensitive ingredients below 40°C.

🧴 Formulation Behaviour

✔ Viscosity

Montanov 68 contributes medium viscosity. For thicker creams, combine with:

• cetyl alcohol
• cetearyl alcohol
• butters
• fatty esters
• gums (xanthan, sclerotium)

✔ Skin Feel

It creates:

• soft
• velvety
• cushiony
• non‑greasy
• non‑waxy

textures.

✔ Stability

Very stable when:

• used at correct percentage
• paired with supportive co‑emulsifiers
• mixed at correct temperature
• cooled gradually

🌱 Compatibility

Compatible With

• plant oils
• esters
• butters
• humectants
• botanical extracts
• electrolytes (with care)
• most preservatives
• most thickeners

Use Caution With

• high electrolyte loads
• very low viscosity formulas
• high levels of alcohol
• very high water content (>85%)

These can weaken lamellar structure.

⚠️ Common Issues & Troubleshooting

1. Soaping

Cause: lamellar structure + high fatty alcohols Fix:

• reduce cetearyl alcohol
• add esters (e.g., isoamyl laurate)
• add a small amount of silicone alternative
• increase oil phase slightly

2. Lotion too thin

Fix:

• increase Montanov 68
• add cetyl alcohol
• add a water phase thickener – sepimx zen, xanthan etc
• increase oil phase

3. Separation

Fix:

• ensure both phases reach 70–75°C
• increase Montanov 68 by 1–2%
• add a co‑emulsifier
• incorporate a water phase thickener
• reduce electrolytes

4. Graininess

Fix:

• ensure full melting
• avoid cooling too quickly
• check for incompatible butters

🧼 Montanov 68 vs Olivem 1000

Montanov 68 is often compared to Olivem 1000.

Montanov 68

• more stable
• less waxy
• softer feel
• fewer soaping issues
• easier to work with

Olivem 1000

• more natural feel
• more matte
• more prone to soaping
• can be trickier to stabilise

A full comparison will be available in the page: Montanov 68 vs Olivem 1000

📄 Safety & Regulatory Notes

• ECOCERT approved
• COSMOS approved
• vegan
• biodegradable
• non‑ionic
• non‑sensitising
• suitable for sensitive skin

It is permitted in cosmetic products in:

• UK
• EU
• USA
• Canada
• Australia
• Japan

No usage restrictions apply.

🔗 Related Reading

• How to Formulate with Montanov 68
• Montanov 68 Compatibility Chart
• Montanov 68 Troubleshooting Guide
• Hydrating Gel-Cream Recipe
• Body Butter with Montanov 68 Recipe
• Montanov 68 Rich Nourishing Cream Recipe

🛒 Where to Buy

You can purchase Montanov 68 from The Formulary: