Montanov 68 is one of the most widely used natural emulsifiers in modern skincare formulation. Known for its lamellar structure, excellent skin feel, and strong stability profile, it is a favourite among formulators creating natural, COSMOS‑approved creams and lotions.
🌿 What Is Montanov 68?
It is a natural, non‑ionic O/W emulsifier used to create stable creams and lotions with a soft, velvety skin feel.
Montanov 68 INCI
Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetearyl Glucoside
Origin
- Plant‑derived
- Glucose‑based
- ECOCERT & COSMOS approved
- Biodegradable
- Vegan‑friendly
The emulsifier is part of the Montanov family of emulsifiers known for creating lamellar structures that mimic the skin’s natural lipid layers.
⭐ Why Formulators Choose Montanov 68
- Excellent stability
- Soft, elegant skin feel
- Lamellar structure (skin‑mimicking)
- High compatibility with oils, esters, butters
- Natural certification
- Versatility (creams, lotions, milks)
- Good performance with actives
- Low soaping compared to other natural emulsifiers
It is often chosen over Olivem 1000 for its more predictable stability and less waxy feel.
🔬 How It Works
Montanov 68 forms lamellar liquid crystal structures, which:
- improve stability
- enhance hydration
- reduce transepidermal water loss
- create a soft, cushiony texture
- improve active delivery
Lamellar emulsions are considered more “skin‑friendly” because they mimic the skin’s natural lipid organisation.
📏 Usage Rates
Typical usage levels:
| Product Type | Montanov 68 % |
|---|---|
| Rich creams | 6–7% |
| Medium lotions | 4–5% |
| Light lotions | 3% |
| Fluid milks | 2% |
Higher percentages increase viscosity and stability.
🧪 Phase & Processing Requirements
Oil Phase
It must be heated in the oil phase.
Temperature
Heat both phases to 70–75°C.
Emulsification
- Combine phases at equal temperature
- Use moderate shear (not too high)
- Mix until emulsified
- Continue gentle stirring during cool‑down
Cool‑Down Phase
Add heat‑sensitive ingredients below 40°C.
🧴 Formulation Behaviour
✔ Viscosity
Montanov 68 contributes medium viscosity. For thicker creams, combine with:
- cetyl alcohol
- cetearyl alcohol
- butters
- fatty esters
- gums (xanthan, sclerotium)
✔ Skin Feel
It creates:
- soft
- velvety
- cushiony
- non‑greasy
- non‑waxy
textures.
✔ Stability
Very stable when:
- used at correct percentage
- paired with supportive co‑emulsifiers
- mixed at correct temperature
- cooled gradually
🌱 Compatibility
Compatible With
- plant oils
- esters
- butters
- humectants
- botanical extracts
- electrolytes (with care)
- most preservatives
- most thickeners
Use Caution With
- high electrolyte loads
- very low viscosity formulas
- high levels of alcohol
- very high water content (>85%)
These can weaken lamellar structure.
⚠️ Common Issues & Troubleshooting
1. Soaping
Cause: lamellar structure + high fatty alcohols Fix:
- reduce cetearyl alcohol
- add esters (e.g., isoamyl laurate)
- add a small amount of silicone alternative
- increase oil phase slightly
2. Lotion too thin
Fix:
- increase Montanov 68
- add cetyl alcohol
- add a gum
- increase oil phase
3. Separation
Fix:
- ensure both phases reach 70–75°C
- increase Montanov 68 by 1–2%
- add a co‑emulsifier
- reduce electrolytes
4. Graininess
Fix:
- ensure full melting
- avoid cooling too quickly
- check for incompatible butters
🧼 Montanov 68 vs Olivem 1000
Montanov 68 is often compared to Olivem 1000.
Montanov 68
- more stable
- less waxy
- softer feel
- fewer soaping issues
- easier to work with
Olivem 1000
- more natural feel
- more matte
- more prone to soaping
- can be trickier to stabilise
A full comparison will be available in the cluster page: Montanov 68 vs Olivem 1000
📄 Safety & Regulatory Notes
- ECOCERT approved
- COSMOS approved
- vegan
- biodegradable
- non‑ionic
- non‑sensitising
- suitable for sensitive skin
It is permitted in cosmetic products in:
- UK
- EU
- USA
- Canada
- Australia
- Japan
No usage restrictions apply.
🔗 Related Reading
- How to Formulate with Montanov 68
- Montanov 68 Troubleshooting Guide
- How to Mitigate Soaping
- Montanov 68 Compatibility Chart
- Montanov 68 vs Olivem 1000
- Montanov 68 Recipes
🛒 Where to Buy
You can purchase Montanov 68 from The Formulary: