Montanov 68 Compatibility Chart
Montanov 68 is a highly versatile natural emulsifier, but its lamellar structure means certain ingredients can challenge stability or texture. This chart helps formulators understand which ingredients pair well, which need adjustment, and which can destabilise or thicken the system.
🧴 Overview
INCI: Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetearyl Glucoside Type: Non‑ionic O/W emulsifier Structure: Lamellar liquid crystal Recommended pH: 4.5 – 8.0 Temperature: 70–75 °C (oil phase) Usage: 3–8% depending on texture
⚗️ Compatibility Summary
| Ingredient Category | Compatibility | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Plant oils | ✅ Excellent | Works with most triglyceride oils; avoid >40% oil phase for light lotions |
| Esters | ✅ Excellent | Improves slip and reduces soaping (isoamyl laurate, dicaprylyl carbonate) |
| Silicone alternatives | ✅ Excellent | Coco‑caprylate/caprate, Neopentyl glycol diheptanoate enhance sensory feel |
| Butters | ⚠ Moderate | Use ≤5%; high levels increase viscosity and risk of graininess |
| Fatty alcohols | ⚠ Moderate | Use ≤2%; excess increases drag and soaping |
| Waxes | ⚠ Moderate | High wax loads can destabilise lamellar structure |
| Electrolytes | ⚠ Caution | High levels (aloe, sodium PCA, panthenol) can thin or separate emulsions |
| Humectants | ✅ Excellent | Glycerine, Propanediol, Sorbitol improve hydration and stability |
| Polymers / Thickeners | ✅ Excellent | Sepimax Zen ideal; avoid high xanthan or carbomer levels |
| Preservatives | ✅ Excellent | Broad compatibility; avoid high ethanol (>5%) |
| Fragrance / Essential oils | ✅ Excellent | Add below 40 °C; use ≤1% total |
| Actives (water‑soluble) | ⚠ Variable | Add below 40 °C; check pH and ionic strength |
| Actives (oil‑soluble) | ✅ Excellent | Add to oil phase; stable with most esters and triglycerides |
| Powdered actives | ⚠ Caution | Disperse in humectant or pre‑solubilise; avoid clumping |
| Alcohols (ethanol, isopropanol) | ⚠ Caution | >5% can thin or destabilise emulsion |
| Acids (AHA/BHA) | ⚠ Caution | Maintain pH > 4.5; test stability |
| Salts / Minerals | ⚠ Caution | High ionic strength can disrupt lamellar structure |
| Pigments / Clays | ⚠ Moderate | Disperse well; may thicken or destabilise if overloaded |
🧪 Functional Ingredient Compatibility
| Functional Ingredient | Compatibility | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Sepimax Zen | ✅ Excellent | Thickens elegantly; improves slip; stabilises lamellar structure |
| DUB Cire H1 (C10‑18 Triglycerides) | ✅ Excellent | Reduces soaping; smooths waxy emulsions; improves sensory feel |
| Glyceryl Stearate SE | ✅ Excellent | Co‑emulsifier; enhances stability and texture |
| Polyglyceryl‑6 Distearate | ✅ Excellent | Strengthens lamellar structure |
| Cetyl Alcohol | ⚠ Moderate | Adds body; excess increases drag |
| Cetearyl Alcohol | ⚠ Moderate | Adds viscosity; excess increases soaping |
| Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate | ✅ Excellent | Improves emulsification and sensory feel |
| Stearic Acid | ⚠ Moderate | Can increase whitening; use ≤2% |
| Behenyl Alcohol | ⚠ Moderate | Adds structure; may increase waxy feel |
| Hydroxyethylcellulose | ⚠ Moderate | Compatible but can reduce slip; use ≤0.3% |
| Carbomer | ⚠ Moderate | Neutralise carefully; avoid high levels |
| Xanthan Gum | ⚠ Moderate | Thickens but increases drag; prefer Sepimax Zen |
| Sclerotium Gum | ✅ Excellent | Adds cushiony texture; compatible with lamellar systems |
💊 Difficult‑to‑Work‑With Actives
| Active | Compatibility | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Niacinamide | ✅ Good | Stable; maintain pH 5–7 |
| Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) | ⚠ Caution | pH < 4.5 may destabilise; use derivatives (MAP, SAP) |
| Retinol / Retinyl Palmitate | ✅ Excellent | Add to oil phase; protect from light |
| Hyaluronic Acid | ⚠ Moderate | High molecular weight can thicken excessively; use ≤0.3% |
| Panthenol | ⚠ Moderate | High levels (>2%) can thin emulsion |
| Urea | ⚠ Caution | High concentration increases ionic strength; test stability |
| Alpha‑Arbutin | ⚠ Caution | Sensitive to pH; maintain 5–6 |
| Salicylic Acid | ⚠ Caution | Solubilise properly; maintain pH > 4.5 |
| Glycolic Acid / Lactic Acid | ⚠ Caution | Maintain pH > 4.5; test stability |
| Zinc Oxide / Titanium Dioxide | ⚠ Moderate | Disperse well; may thicken or destabilise |
| Peptides | ⚠ Variable | Stable if pH 5–7; avoid high electrolytes |
| Caffeine | ✅ Excellent | Stable and compatible |
| Ceramides | ✅ Excellent | Add to oil phase; compatible with lamellar systems |
| Botanical Extracts | ⚠ Variable | Check pH and electrolyte content; may thin emulsion |
🧴 Formulation Tips
- Keep Montanov 68 between 4–6% for balanced texture.
- Use Sepimax Zen for thickening instead of gums.
- Add DUB Cire H1 for smoother, less waxy feel.
- Avoid high electrolyte or acid loads.
- Always test stability after 24 hours and 1 week.
- Maintain pH > 4.5 for lamellar integrity.
🔗 Related Reading
- Montanov 68 Complete Guide
- How to Formulate with Montanov 68
- Montanov 68 Troubleshooting Guide
- Soaping in Emulsions
- Montanov 68 vs Olivem 1000
- Montanov 68 Recipes
🛒 Where to Buy Montanov 68
You can purchase high‑purity, natural Montanov 68 from The Formulary: Montanov 68 – Product Page