Formulate with Montanov 68
Montanov 68 is one of the most versatile natural emulsifiers available to formulators. It creates stable, lamellar emulsions with a soft, velvety skin feel and excellent hydration properties. This guide explains how to use Montanov 68 effectively, including phase setup, temperature control, co‑emulsifiers, and formulation tips for different textures.
🌿 Understanding Montanov 68
INCI: Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetearyl Glucoside Type: Non‑ionic O/W emulsifier Origin: Plant‑derived, glucose‑based Certifications: ECOCERT, COSMOS, Vegan, Biodegradable
Montanov 68 forms lamellar liquid‑crystal structures that mimic the skin’s lipid layers. This structure improves hydration and enhances the sensory profile of creams and lotions.
🧪 Basic Formulation Guidelines
Usage Rate
| Product Type | Montanov 68 % |
|---|---|
| Rich creams | 6–8% |
| Medium lotions | 4–6% |
| Light lotions | 3–4% |
| Fluid milks | 2–3% |
Higher percentages increase viscosity and stability.
Phase Setup
Montanov 68 must be melted in the oil phase.
Typical phase structure:
| Phase | Ingredients | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Oil phase | Montanov 68, oils, butters, fatty alcohols | Heat to 70–75 °C |
| Water phase | Water, humectants, gums | Heat to 70–75 °C |
| Cool‑down phase | Actives, fragrance, preservatives | Add below 40 °C |
Combine oil and water phases at equal temperature and mix until emulsified.
Temperature
- Heat both phases to 70–75 °C.
- Combine at equal temperature.
- Avoid overheating (>80 °C) — it can degrade the glucoside component.
- Stir gently during cool‑down to maintain lamellar structure.
⚗️ Co‑Emulsifiers and Stabilisers
Montanov 68 works well alone, but co‑emulsifiers can fine‑tune texture and stability.
| Co‑Emulsifier | Function |
|---|---|
| Glyceryl Stearate SE | Improves stability and reduces soaping |
| Polyglyceryl‑6 Distearate | Enhances lamellar structure |
| Cetyl Alcohol | Thickens and adds creaminess |
| Cetearyl Alcohol | Adds body and stability |
| Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate | Improves emulsification and sensory feel |
🧴 Texture Control
To make thicker creams
- Increase Montanov 68 to 6–8%
- Add cetyl or cetearyl alcohol (1–2%)
- Include butters or waxes
- Add a gum (xanthan, sclerotium)
To make lighter lotions
- Reduce Montanov 68 to 3–4%
- Use light esters (isoamyl laurate, dicaprylyl carbonate)
- Reduce fatty alcohols
- Increase water phase slightly
⚠️ Avoiding Soaping
Soaping (white streaks when rubbed in) can occur with lamellar emulsifiers like Montanov 68. It’s caused by air entrapment, not instability.
To reduce soaping
- Lower fatty alcohols
- Add slip agents (isoamyl laurate, coco‑caprylate/caprate)
- Include 1–2% light ester
- Cool slowly while stirring gently
See the dedicated cluster page: Soaping in Emulsions – What It Is and How to Prevent It
🌱 Compatibility Notes
Montanov 68 is compatible with:
- plant oils
- esters
- butters
- humectants
- botanical extracts
- most preservatives
- most thickeners
Use caution with:
- high electrolyte loads
- very low viscosity formulas
- high alcohol content
See the Montanov 68 Compatibility Chart for detailed ingredient interactions.
🧼 Troubleshooting Common Issues
| Problem | Likely Cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Separation | Phases not heated equally | Reheat both to 70–75 °C |
| Thin texture | Low emulsifier or oil phase | Increase Montanov 68 or oil phase |
| Soaping | High fatty alcohols | Reduce alcohols, add slip agent |
| Graininess | Rapid cooling | Cool slowly, ensure full melting |
See the Montanov 68 Troubleshooting Guide for detailed solutions.
💡 Formulation Tips
- Combine Montanov 68 with Propanediol for improved hydration and slip.
- Use light esters for elegant sensory feel.
- Avoid excessive waxes — they increase drag.
- Always test viscosity after 24 hours; lamellar systems thicken slightly over time.
- Store finished emulsions at room temperature for stability testing.
🔗 Related Reading
- Montanov 68 Complete Guide
- Soaping in Emulsions
- Montanov 68 Troubleshooting Guide
- Montanov 68 Compatibility Chart
- Montanov 68 vs Olivem 1000
- Montanov 68 Recipes
🛒 Where to Buy Montanov 68
You can purchase high‑purity, natural Montanov 68 from The Formulary: