Glyceryl Stearate (GS) is a low HLB emulsifier that is typically used as a secondary emulsifier to a primary, higher HLB, emulsifier to create creams with a light and fast absorbing skin feel. Using a low HLB emulsifier can help reduce the soaping effect (micro-foaming) characteristic of creams with high plant oil content that do not employ silicones to offset micro-foaming.
This version is not the self emulsifying version of Glyceryl Stearate and so must be paired with a primary emulsifier. It can be combined with any of the following
Cetearyl Alcohol and Polysorbate 60
Cetearyl Alcohol and Ceteareth 20
(of course there are many more emulsifiers available to formulators – we are vouching for those emulsifiers we have worked with)
Although not definitive we have found that a ratio of 3:2 primary emulsifier to GS works well
For example: For 15% oils try 3% Olivem 1000 with 2% GS. If you want a thicker and richer cream add a fatty alcohol such as cetyl alcohol at 1%.
Form: White granular powder (like sugar)
INCI: Glyceryl Stearate
Usage: Typically 1% to 3% combined with a primary emulsifier. Add to heated oil phase